Organic winegrowing short course reflects new market

by Jeri Ohmart, SAREP

An increasingly competitive global trade environment and a desire to improve the ecological health of vineyard systems are providing the impetus for many California viticulturists to explore organic production practices. Within the last decade, more research has been focused on organic winegrape production, and the result has been high quality organic grapes for a high quality finished product.

On Nov. 17-18, 2003, farm advisor Glenn McGourty of UC Cooperative Extension Mendocino County, Ann Thrupp of Fetzer Vineyards and SAREP teamed up to present an intensive two-day “Organic Winegrowing Short Course” on organic winegrape production research and practices. Additional sponsors included the California Department of Food and Agriculture (Buy California Initiative), Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance, California Association of Winegrape Growers, USDA, and Brutocao Cellars in Hopland, which donated the attractive conference space.

Held in beautiful Mendocino County—the center of organic winegrowing in California—the course attracted over 100 participants, including growers, vineyard managers, winemakers, researchers, consultants and other agriculture professionals. The course emphasized practical, useable information to help growers consider growing winegrapes organically, or to improve their practices if they are transitioning to organic. There was much to offer all winegrape growers also, as several presentations emphasized soil building, cover cropping systems, nutrient and disease management.

Speakers included university researchers, farm advisors, certification experts, growers and winemakers. Paul Dolan, president of Fetzer Vineyards, offered introductory remarks, while Janet C. “Jenny” Broome, SAREP associate director, set the tone for the two days in her presentation, “A Systems Approach to Organic Winegrowing.” Morning sessions on the first day emphasized soil management in organic vineyards. John Reganold, soil scientist from Washington State University, spoke about the importance of good soils in the production of good wines. McGourty followed with a presentation on the uses and benefits of cover crops, rotations, and tillage vs. no-till practices. Soil scientist and Sonoma Compost owner Will Bakx made a presentation on “Making and Using Compost,” and Rhonda Smith, UC Cooperative Extension, Sonoma County farm advisor, discussed irrigation management.

Afternoon sessions emphasized pest management. Tom Lanini, UC Extension weed specialist, UC Davis, spoke about weed management; Michael Costello, professor, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, addressed insect problems; and Doug Gubler, UC Extension plant pathologist, UCD, presented information on disease control. The afternoon was capped off with a lively field activity on the site of Fetzer Vineyards’ Valley Oaks Ranch in Hopland, where participants were shown how mini-sheep could be used as natural grazers and weed-eaters, attended a machinery and equipment demonstration, and enjoyed the beautiful organic gardens tended by Kate Frey. Frey explained the complex planning that has gone into Fetzer’s gardens, the multiple functions of many plants and herbs, and how they interact with the entire organic farming system. After the field event, the group retired to a “Share Fair” that included exhibits and a wine tasting.

The second day focused on other aspects of organic winegrape growing and the relationship between vineyards and their surrounding environments. Karen Klonsky, UC Extension agricultural economist, UC Davis, presented her recently completed Organic Winegrowing Cost Studies, a topic of great interest to the audience. John Trinterud of California Certified Organic Farmers, explained the organic certification process and detailed issues faced by growers during the transition to organic. The grower and winemaker panels offered the audience the opportunity to learn from actual examples of organic production. Panel members were able to address many practical, on-the-ground questions from the audience.

The short course concluded with a return to organic winegrowing as a whole systems approach. McGourty spoke on water quality issues, and Robert L. Bugg, SAREP farming systems analyst, expanded the discussion to “Understanding the Importance of Habitat and Biodiversity.” The course concluded with a presentation on “Integrated Canopy Management for Organic Vineyards,” by DeWitt Garlock of Robert Mondavi Winery and “The Biodynamic Approach to Winegrowing,” by Alan York, viticulture and horticulture consultant.

The Organic Winegrowing short course offered an agenda packed with information based on research and practical grower experience. Participants’ feedback indicated that the two days were well worth their time, and many suggested that this course be repeated in different locations around the state.